Yozma's School

Over the years Temple Sinai has had a connection with Kehilat Yozma, the Reform congregation in Modi'in. We have had three members of that synagogue visit and speak to us including the founding rabbi, Kinneret Shiryon and their new president Yuval Newman, Ron Newmaan's cousin. On a number of our trips to Israel our congregants have worshiped at Yozma and even enjoyed home hospitality from its congregants. Over the years I have personally supported Kehilat Yozma along with Rabbi Miri Gold's congregation Kehilat Birkat Shalom. Rabbi Gold was this past year's Sinai's Scholar in Residence when she related her ongoing case in the Israeli Supreme Court to receive a government salary like orthodox rabbis, who are community rabbis. I encourage others to support these two congregations as well.
Last week I visited the school connected with Kehilat Yozma in Modi'in. The congregation was started by Rabbi Shiryon with the idea that if you create an outstanding educational program people will want to affiliate. Through their school affiliation many Israelis would be introduced to Reform Judaism and the congregation itself. For a number of years the congregation ran an extensive pre-school and kindergarten program. For most of that time the pre-school prefab buildings, known as “caravanim”, were the location used for worship services. On Fridays the school materials were stored on the sides of one of the classrooms and adult chairs were set up along with an Aron Kodesh. Now after a triumphant court case the congregation has a small building that is used as a synagogue and offices, as well as the pre-school pre-fabs and a school building designated by the Ministry of Education.
At present the school has classes from the 1st to the 4th grades. Each year, a new grade is added, after the initial single class of first grade in 2006-2007. Presently there are 2 classes each of the 1st, 2nd and 3rd grades plus one 4th grade. Over the years the school has moved to different buildings depending on available rooms and designation by the Ministry of Education. Next year they school will again be required to depart the present structure in Maccabim. Maccabim is a small community united along with Re'ut with the municipality of Modi'in. This wandering Jew syndrome for the school is very difficult for both the staff and families. The situation does not allow them to create a neighborhood school so that most parents must drive their children each day. The families come from all over Modi'in and I believe that is why the ministry moves this and other special schools like Yozma to different facilities, since special schools draw students from a large number of neighborhoods.
One of Yozma's rabbis who is also the school's rabbi, Nir Barkin has been a friend for the past 6 years. I met him during Noam's first year at HUC rabbinical school in Jerusalem. At the time of my visit he was out of the country at the CCAR convention in San Francisco and suggested that I contact Yozma's executive director, Yossi Aud, who had been the director of the school. Nir said I would enjoy what he described as the only “Jewish” school around.
Even though the school now has a new principal, Navah, Yossi happily agreed to give me a tour of the school. He is extremely proud of what they have created. He repeatedly referred to the development of the inner spirit, the “ruach p'nimi” of each individual child. This inner spirit process allows the children to appreciate the world around them, and the society, and also helps them develop a connection to God.
Unlike other schools in Israel the teachers arrive at 7:15 a.m. to be in their classrooms to greet the early arriving students beginning at 7:30. This was contrary to what I observed in other schools where the students arrive to the classrooms before the teachers arrive. At Yozma's school the teachers pay special attention to every pupil as he or she arrives trying to notice and comment on something about them or ask them personally how things are going each day. Yossi also told me that from the start Rabbi Barkin, as school rabbi, has been an integral part of the school. From the beginning Nir, in fact, had the first office in the school facility. He does not only come to teach Jewish subjects or lead ceremonies or prayers. He is totally integrated into the program, knows about the students and spends a good deal of time in the school each day. When I heard about Nir's role in the school, I thought this was unique but I later learned that the rabbi at Netiv Zevulun acts in a similar manner. However Rabbi Barkin as well as Rabbi Shiryon are part of a team that sets direction for the school incorporating educational and religious values.
Yossi was especially proud of the school's arts and music programs. He described them with passion. The art projects foster the students' abilities to pay attention and appreciate the world around them. The focus moves from the computer screen and TV to the beauty of this earth. He conducts woodworking classes. Each grade fashions different items. For example, in 1st grade the students each work with a small piece of wood that are all combined to make an Aron Kodesh, a Holy Ark. This Ark accompanies the class through their years at the school. I asked what will be done with the Ark when the students graduate. He told me they will deal with that situation in the future since the oldest class of 4th graders has a way to go before graduating from high school. In 2nd grade they make book stands, the 3rd grade stools and the 4th grade class is now making a clock. Yossi said of the latter project: the clock is to help them focus on their own inner clocks.
I was thrilled with this visit. It made me proud that the Reform community has been creating a school that fosters the inner spiritual development of each child along with the more standard educational goals. The students seem quite happy as I visited each and every class. One 2nd grade class was acting out the Biblical story of Pesach and the students were not only hearing the story but becoming part of it. Their Jewish heritage is integral to the entire educational experience. Yozma is also a model for us in our American Reform religious schools.

Returning to the Classroom

When a teacher requests whether or not I can come another hour to teach my lesson to other students after she heard me earlier in the morning, I believe it is indicative of the positive reaction I have received in the schools. When principals invite me back it is a sign that things are going well. But more so, at the end of classes when students come to me to continue asking questions about Rochester or even about my personal story I feel most rewarded for my efforts. At Modi'in's Purim parade, called the Adloyada, at which I participated in costume and marched with Temple Sinai's matched school, Idanim, students from one of the other schools came up to me and asked why I wasn't marching with them. Given this feedback I feel I have made connections and helped to strengthen our educational bridge.
During the past week I returned to Idanim, visited the only school in the country directly connected with a Reform congregation(v. upcoming Yozma School blog), was invited into an Orthodox school and by chance had Shabbat dinner with a student who had heard me in his class. All of these occurrences coming only a week before I am returning to the US, reinforced my feelings of accomplishment this year.
The final visit to Idanim felt like a return to my home base. Not only has Aviva Dvir, the principal of the school and Jan's counterpart in the Educational Bridge on the Modi'in side been a support and facilitator in my teaching but she is also a dear friend. In fact this past Shabbat afternoon I went with her, her husband Amos, and her daughter Or to meet her son Omri, his wife Hila and their baby Matan in Abu Ghosh, an Israeli Arab town for a hummus lunch at one of the two “Abu Shukri, number 1, the Original” restaurants there. After lunch we went to a local bakery for unbelievable baklawa and kenafe, another sweet Arab pastry. Then we visited a community and high observation area called Har Adar, Mount Adar. It was not named after our educator Ilan Adar but was so named because the British, in the time of the mandate set up radar installations there due to its strategic position. So Har Radar became Har Adar. From there one can see jerusalem, Ramallah, Modi'in and if it was clear enough all the way to the Mediterranean. Our final stop of the day was an orchid greenhouse at Kibbutz Ma'ale Hahamisha which contains an area to bring an ailing plant that is not blooming for rehab. That area is called the Orchid Pension (a type of hotel).
When I arrive at Idanim I am now known to the guard at the door (all Israeli schools have guard sat their entrances), the office staff, the building superintendent (called Av habayit, House father), most of the teachers and many students. Aviva even tells classes that I am not really a guest any more but I am part of the staff.
This last visit was supposed to be for two classes; one 6th grade about American Jewry and one 5th grade about the Abayudaya in Uganda. As I finished the second class Aviva asked if I would be willing to visit another 6th grade class because the teacher who was in my first lesson wanted me to meet with her own class. I found the one year difference between the 5th and 6th graders to make a huge difference. However the students still felt I really didn't look like a rabbi. At the conclusion of the day a few girls came to me and asked me if I would be returning and why don't I stay in Israel. What a positive note to finish my time at Idanim.
At Shabbat dinner this past week one of the Idanim students along with his parents were guests at my Aunt's home. At first the boy did not recognize me but when he did he was pleased and we talked about my visit to his class. He remembered many of the things I spoke of in my presentation. He told me and his parents that he enjoyed the class. However, he was quite surprised when my discussion with his father who is a journalist and writes for The Jerusalem Post was about politics. I guess he did not think rabbis or teachers discuss politics.
The day after I was at Idanim I was invited to visit an Orthodox school, Netiv Zevulun. In the education system the government supports both secular schools as well as those that are Orthodox or what they refer to as a government Torah schools. The principal Menachem Fisher and the assistant principal Shoshi Fishbein participated in two previous delegations of Modi'in teachers to Rochester. I considered my invitation a major triumph for a number of reasons. First, it seems that other Orthodox schools, even the “modern” Orthodox ones like Netiv Zevulun are more hesitant to make the connection with the overall partnership. Second, I had misconceptions about how a Reform rabbi would be accepted in an Orthodox school. I must say with tremendous pleasure that I was not only greeted with warmth and respect but was introduced by Menachem and Shoshi as a Reform rabbi from Rochester who was there to teach them about our Jewish community and lifestyle. There was no hesitation in allowing the students to know that there are other streams of Judaism, and I believe the streams were all given legitimacy by the way I was welcomed. Third, I had already heard in one of the secular schools a parent was concerned that a Reform rabbi was coming to talk. I imagine Menachem might have received even more comments and perhaps criticism when parents learned of my visit.
I don't know if I would get such a welcome in other Orthodox schools. Netiv Zevulun is clearly Orthodox but I have noticed mothers wearing pants who bring and pick up their kids. The assistant principal Shoshi does not cover her hair. Add to that their school rabbi, Motti Fishfried who has no beard, was wearing a blue shirt with no black coat and plays basketball with the students. Stereotypes are immediately shattered.
When I ask my opening question of whether or not I look like a rabbi in the secular schools their answer is usually negative. My beard is not long enough and I don't wear rabbi's clothing, meaning a black suit and white shirt, are two of the reasons I most often hear. Those secular students who have little contact with rabbis don't understand that we come in many varieties. The Orthodox students at Netiv Zevulun noticed I did not have tzitzit (which Motti did have) but I was wearing a kippah and they thought nothing of my relatively short beard and regular everyday clothing. This reaffirms the idea that those within any group see and understand the nuances and differences while those outside looking in often tend to group everything together and paint a less nuanced broad stroked picture.
I taught two classes of boys who were put together in one room. They had a lot of questions about ritual practice and kashrut. They were interested in the reasons Reform and Conservative Jews in the U.S. practice Judaism differently. They wanted to know if there were enough places to buy kosher food in Rochester. I never detected any negativity when I explained how Reform Jews and I in particular do things they would never think of doing, such as driving to services on Shabbat and holidays, although one boy wanted to know why I don't start a synagogue near my home in Webster.
The girls have one very large class of 40 students. After Menachem left the room I was the only male and since I was talking to all females I had to use the feminine plural forms in Hebrew. I asked them to excuse my grammar because I had never before taught a class of only girls. They were interested in what our students do as B'not Mitzvah. One girl asked if they wore tallitot and kippot. I explained that was an option for us for the girls but also for the boys. They then asked if the girls wore boys' clothing and if they dressed nicely for Shabbat and holidays. I told them that when girls become bat mitzvah they usually wear dresses or skirts but when they wear pants they are not boys' styles and are specifically for girls. Both classes also asked me why we celebrate two seders for Pesach.
After class Menachem and Shoshi proudly gave me haggadot the school had printed that contained explanations and teachings written and gathered from traditional sources by the students and put together by Rabbi Fishfried. It is a lovely edition and looks professionally done. Menachem was also proud to point out that when any adult enters a class all the students rise to honor them. I have to say again I felt truly honored by my visit to Netiv Zevulun.

A Return to the Kibbutz; A Return to Purim

This past weekend I made my second trip down to my brother's kibbutz, Nir Yitzhak. I suggested to him that we meet in Tel Aviv Thursday evening to enjoy a good meal at top notch restaurant. So we headed off to Jaffa which is united with Tel Aviv under the one municipality.
I had been reading about a place called the Yoezer Wine Bar and Rob was able to get us a reservation for Thursday evening for 8pm. It is just off the street facing the famous clock tower which was built in the center of Jaffa in Turkish times to commemorate the 50 year jubilee of Sultan Abdul Hamid II in 1906. The restaurant is housed in a building which is an old structure with thick stone walls and many arches. Much of the stone is covered in a plaster. The inside of the restaurant is rustic looking with wooden tables and mismatched chairs most likely purchased in the surrounding flea market and antique or junk stalls.
Yoezer is called a wine bar because of its extensive wine list but unlike other wine bars they only have a limited number of wines by the glass to taste and no sampling of small amounts on the menu. However they have a fine French and Italian menu centering on meat. I would not recommend this place to Jan or other vegetarians. We shared a charcuterie dinner for two which featured a variety of smoked meats, sausages and pates (enough said). Of course we ordered an appropriate bottle of wine to accompany the food. Because of the enormous amount of food we were unable to finish the main course and uncharacteristically skipped dessert.
Surprisingly the restaurant was not crowded. We came early but we did not leave until almost 10 pm. That might still be too early for a Thursday night in the Tel Aviv area. Thursday has become the beginning of the weekend and has become a time for socializing and going out. We also surmised that economic issues may have come into play since this is not an inexpensive eatery. Yet, we do know that many other fine restaurants are often full and are difficult to get reservations. In any case, we were delighted to patronize this restaurant. From there we drove south to the kibbutz.
On Friday evening and Saturday the kibbutz planned to celebrate a belated Purim. First I learned was that in general, on this kibbutz and on many others Purim, and some holidays are often celebrated on the Shabbat after the holy day itself. I don't believe that is the case for the Pesach seder or Yom Kippur or Rosh HaShanah. I also think they celebrate Israeli Memorial Day, Yom Hazikaron, and Yom HaAtzma'ut on the actual days. Since Purim this year was on a Saturday night -Sunday the party was planned for the following Friday and the children's activities for the next day. Sadly, there was a death on the kibbutz a couple of days before the celebrations so they postponed everything for another week. So, with Purim actually on February 27-28, the kibbutz's celebration was finally held on March 12-13. Again this was another example of Purim being a month long celebration (v. earlier blog) and not simply a single day.
Due to the Purim party for all adults 18 and older, the kibbutz did not serve its Friday night dinner. My brother and I ate “Shabbat” dinner at his place with my nephew and niece. Afterwards, we went over to the dining hall for the party after 11:00 pm (already past my bedtime). The room was elaborately decorated, including a stage for a performance, a large screen, a bar and soft drink area and strobe lights. Materials from the kibbutz's polymer netting company, Polysack, were used for much of the decorations. We entered to the sound of blaring music with a deeply resonating bass track and a crowded dance floor. Later we watched skits and a video. They were clearly silly. The audience laughed but I missed most of it because I couldn't understand it, hear clearly or know the inside aspects of the jokes. The music began again and we lasted a short while more before returning home.
The celebration for the children the next day in the afternoon: Huge blowup climbing contraptions on the soccer field and a tower with four bungy chord seats and trampolines on the ground for kids to be strapped into harnesses and bounce high into the air. These amusements were brought in through an entertainment company and varied by age groups. Off to the side the youth sold ice cream, cold drinks, cotton candy, etc. The prices seemed a bit high for the kibbutz but there was a sign which declared that the profits were going to fight diabetes.
That evening at 6:30there was a show for the children again in the dining hall. We did not go to see it but Rob said that the people on the kibbutz who prepare it are quite professional and it is always standing room only. At both of these children's activities outsiders are invited from the surrounding area. The one missing Purim custom due to the delay of the celebration were the costumes for the kids. There is usually a parade of all the children in their costumes. On the previous night some of the adults at their party did wear costumes.
On Saturday evening I returned to Modi'in. On the way my brother, his daughter and I drove the 45 minutes to Ashkelon to eat dinner at a restaurant called Meat Me. It was only a so-so place with Israeli grilled meats and salads. At one point during the meal we looked around at all four of the other occupied tables people were smoking. It is against the law to smoke in restaurants in Israel, but this is Israel, so not only did they smoke but the waiter brought over ashtrays. From there it was a trip of two bus rides, one to Tel Aviv and the second back to Modi'in. I think Purim has finally concluded.

Recent Political Tension

To make an understatement Israel is a place of political tension and struggles. Most of my posts have not been political because the reality of daily life takes precedent - schools, parks, B'nei Mitzvah and ecological concerns that Israelis face every day. But politics and the struggle with the Palestinians is always present in peoples' minds. In this posting I will share some of the recent issues that are in the forefront right now. They mostly are connected to Jerusalem and and the road to Modi'in. Some have reached the American media. I have compiled these thoughts before the visit of Vice President Biden (that's another story).
First there is Silwan, a neighborhood outside the walls of the Old City that was completely in Arab hands before the 1967 Six Day War. Some Israelis claim that at one time many Jews lived in that area. Yemenite Jews settled there at the end of the 19th century but left after the Arab uprisings in the late 1930's. Some right wing Jewish groups have begun to enter this neighborhood and claim property there over recent decades.
Most likely as a response to the required demolition of a Jewish building in Silwan that was built and inhabited by these Jewish settlers, Jerusalem mayor Nir Barkat declared that another archaeological park would be built in this neighborhood. The first park is the archaeological work done on “The City of David” which was the early settlement in the time of King David before the Temple was built and the city expanded. To make this second park 20 Arab homes would need to be destroyed. This would serve as a symbolic reaction to the demolition of the Jewish building. Although the city officials said they would provide other housing for the displaced families there was still a protest against this park. The Palestinian residents desire to stay in their present dwellings and hold little trust that the promises will be fulfilled in an appropriate manner. The national government finally intervened halting the proposed project for the moment.
Those in support of the park said it would be to the benefit of all the local residents. However the City of David park (in reality an archaeological site) has brought almost no benefit to the local Arabs in the area. The Palestinians see this as another attempt by Israel to displace them from their homes and land. One of the arguments against such displacement and attempts to reclaim pre-1948 Jewish owned properties in Arab neighborhoods is that it opens the door for displaced Palestinians who might have claims on their own pre-1948 holdings too. The Palestinians also have a great mistrust of the Israeli government concerning housing and this is not simply paranoia.
Recently a second point of tension between Israel and the Palestinians was a declaration by Israel to make the Tomb of the Patriarchs in Hebron and the grave of Rachel in Bethlehem into national Jewish heritage sites. To many people this is no big deal. These are important sites and religious shrines for Jews. In a recent discussion with a friend we spoke about the reality that it might not even matter if these are in fact the exact locations of the historical shrines. If for thousands of years the faithful have believed that this is the spot, then, in and of itself the spot has important meaning and sacredness.
The Palestinians are saying that by making such a designation of these place Israel is trying to deny the Palestinian legitimacy and connection if not ownership of places and land they think of as theirs. On one hand Palestinians might be using this as an excuse to protest against their view of the “evil” Israel. On the other hand they may have appropriate apprehension. There have been riots in Hebron and on the Temple Mount in Jerusalem where again rock throwing from the upper level has been stopped by police intervention. One has to wonder if Israel is simply stating what it believes to be legitimate designations of important places or if it is in fact trying to take greater control of these areas. In Hebron the Tomb of the Patriarchs is considered holy to both Judaism and Islam and is shared as a sacred shrine. We also know that at times the Palestinians and other Arabs have denied Jews permission to visit their religious sites and have made claims such as denying that the Holy Temple ever existed on the site of the Temple Mount. Please understand that even when I point out negative behavior by Israel I am in no way denying negative behavior by Palestinians and other Arabs.
A third point of conflict in Jerusalem that has brought tension between Israel and the Palestinians involves a neighborhood called Sheikh Jarrah. A short time ago two Palestinian families were evicted from their dwellings because the property was previously owned in pre-state 1948 by Jews. As I mentioned above this claim can cause Israel further problems of earlier Arab ownership of many now Jewishly owned land and buildings. The game has not been played evenly. This is a quote about the situation.
“The asymmetric legal situation in Israel, through the Absentee Property Law, makes it possible for Jews to return to property that was owned by Jews before 1948 — while Palestinian property return is completely impossible. This is both unjust and unwise. In Sheikh Jarrah, this has resulted in Palestinian refugees, originally housed in the neighborhood by the Jordanian government after 1948, becoming refugees a second time. Of course, unlike the settlers forcing the Palestinians out of their homes, the Palestinians cannot return to the homes they owned before 1948 — not in Jaffa, nor in West Jerusalem or anywhere else.”
Two weeks ago on the news it was reported that in one of the recovered Jewish inhabited buildings the right wing settlers had a Purim party. Caught in a recording they were singing the praises of Dr. Baruch Goldstein who brutally shot and murdered Arab worshipers in the Tomb of the Patriarchs at Purim time in 1994. Their song of praise called these murder victims terrorists although at the time their only crime was praying in the mosque at the tomb. I was physically revolted to hear these words of praise for a Jewish mass murderer.
On Saturday evening, March 6, a rally was held in Sheikh Jarrah where a few thousand Palestinians and “Leftist” Jews protested the incursion of Jewish settlers into the traditionally Arab neighborhood. One should realize that in Israel in many communities and neighborhoods it would be impossible for Arabs to buy a home. Former Knesset member Avraham Burg wrote, “Once justice dwelled here. Now the settlers do...”
My final point regarding recent tensions between the Palestinians and Israel focuses on route 443. This is the road I often take to and from Modi'in when I go to Jerusalem. Most of the road is in the territories built on land taken from the locals. Originally this road was promised as an improvement for both Israelis and Palestinians. During the second Intifada there was stone throwing and even shooting at Israeli cars on this road. Now there are many sections with protective walls and fences to insure safety for the cars. However Palestinians are now barred from using this road on their appropriated land. The case has been to the courts that declared in the near future the road must be also open to Palestinian traffic.
Recently a flashing ad appeared on Jpost.com (the Jerusalem Post website) from a group called Shurat HaDin, “Israel Law Center,” advocating barring terrorists, Hamas and PLO from 443. This group is trying to gain support to overturn the ruling of the court. This and the above controversies continue to make trusting a difficult idea for the Palestinians. On the other side Israelis feel that every time they have given something to the Palestinians they get slapped in the face so that their level of trust is also nonexistent. There is little hope among those with whom I talk to that the newest possibility of indirect negotiations, here called “proximity” talks, will bear any fruit. With that said, we must continue to hope, pray and act in ways that will improve the future.

Hava and Adam Ecological Farm

The other day Yisrael, the ecology educator at Idanim school, took me to see the Hava and Adam (Eve and Adam) Ecological Farm here in Modi'in. It was the second day of the Purim break and schools were closed which allowed him the time to give me a tour. Yisrael was on the Modi'in teacher delegation to Rochester this past December and we had some wonderful chats about a number of things including my presentation of Reform Judaism. He is a deep thinker who wants to teach ecological practices in a manner that can easily be understood and adopted.
Having come off a number of days of heavy rain, we met on a cloudy morning that proved to be day with only a few light showers. Still, it was cool and breezy. He greeted me by reflecting how wonderful the rainy weather has been. His view is that of a concerned Israeli who knows the importance of rain as opposed to a tourist or vacationer who is seeking the beautiful sunshine and what we refer to as “pleasant conditions.” The news reports are that Israel has received an increased amount of rain this season helping to raise the level of the Kinneret (the Sea of Galilee) but not nearly enough to offset years of below average amounts of rain. In our prayer book there is a line in the second paragraph of the Tefillah which we refer to as the Gevurot. This line prays for rain from the time of Sukkot until Pesach and for dew from Pesach to Sukkot. Such a prayer being said outside of the land of Israel connects us to the cycle of nature that is needed in Israel. In Rochester the words would have little practical meaning. However if we think about why they were included in the traditional prayers every day of the week we might connect ourselves with matters of life giving forces in nature in the historic homeland of our people. It is as true now as it was for our ancestors when this prayer insertion was adopted.
The ecological farm is on the outskirts but within the city limits of Modi'in. Off to one side of it is a Jewish National Fund forest which is not part of Modi'in. On the other side are recently plowed fields which are now given to a farming company but eventually will turn into the main road from Modi'in to the number 1 highway which connects Tel Aviv with Jerusalem.
The founder of the farm, Yitzik, started teaching environmental education in the Modi'in schools. When he started the farm he brought on other people to do the education in the school. Now many if not all the elementary schools (I know nothing of the programs in the high schools) have environmental educators and designated spaces (ecological gardens) in their facility. Yisrael works in the school and also on the farm.
At the farm there were a number of buildings that were constructed in simple “green” methods. Some use walls made of mud and wood. They in fact reminded me of the mud brick homes I saw in Uganda. These were the same methods as our ancestors used in Egypt.
One house was very colorful because of the different weaving that is done there, and used for some of the decorations. Yisrael explained how they use a number of different materials for insulation in the walls. Also various substances are used in the weaving. Right now there is an open porch and he told me they were going to close it off which will be better protection from varying weather conditions.
There was a large plot of land that was divided up into multiple plots. Families, both young and less young, come and work their own plot in this community garden. The staff help to teach them how to do organic farming. There are water collecting systems for irrigation; they produce their own electricity from solar energy and occasionally a generator; and they make great use of compost. He explained how they are even able to compost and transform human waste from the latrine eventually into clean compost. That was something I was totally in the dark about and it amazed me. All around the farm there are diverse plantings and various animals.
In one corner of the farm they have erected dome structures where international students, mostly North Americans come for a long term experience in Israel. It is under the auspices of a program called Masa, which enables young Jewish adults to spend a semester or a year in over 150 different programs in Israel. They live, learn and work on the farm residing in these simple structures. [By the way if interested 18-30 year olds can look into Masa through the Jewish Agency. The website is masaisrael.org]
The final area Yisrael showed me was set up with three ovens which require neither electricity, natural gas nor other petroleum based fuel. The experience at the farm was an eye opener for many “green” possibilities that are within our reach.

Purim Israeli Style

One of my favorite holidays is Purim. I love the fun of planning a costume and a theme for our Megillah reading and service. It is a treat to see the students, teachers and even some other adults in their creative costumes. The celebration often occurs both on the day of Purim itself with an extra dose of joy on the nearest Sunday at Hebrew school. Well folks, you ain't seen nothing until you experience Purim in Israel.
I was sharing with Aviva Dvir, the principal of Idanim, our match school, how the Israeli schools seem to have a week full of celebrations. Her response was that it is more like a month. The preparations and planning is not only for what costume you will wear but how to carry out a theme for the parade and preparing the shelach manot baskets. Every student in school brings a shelach manot package to class on one designated day and then they pick numbers to give it to classmates. On Purim day itself it seemed that every second or third person I saw on the street was also carrying a basket to give to someone else.
On a day when I was teaching during the week before Purim everyone had come to school in pajamas, even the teachers. Another day everyone wore red. It sounds better in Hebrew because Red Day is Yom Adom. I actually heard one teacher explaining why she doesn't wear red or a certain red shirt because it is the color of a specific football (soccer) team. I can't imagine team colors determining one's choice of clothing [NOT!]. Well maybe I can. Each school determines for itself different themes or activities for the week before Purim.
There is also a day for a parade for the entire city. This year the Purim parade scheduled for this past Friday was postponed due to heavy storms and thunder until next Friday. At the schools I was already seeing major art projects that had been worked on by students and teachers for their delegation in the parade. Only one grade per school actually marches in the parade. Other students participate through clubs and organizations to which they belong. And it seems the everyone else lines the street to watch the parade.
This year I attended the reading of Megillat Esther by the Reform congregation YOZMA. The reading was held at the city's cultural arts center. It was announced at the synagogue and on signs around the city to call either someone from the synagogue or the ticket office at the arts center to reserve free tickets. At Friday night Shabbat services Rabbi Nir Barkin, one of the two rabbis serving YOZMA, told me that not only had they filled the 600 seat auditorium but they actually had requests for 1200 tickets. This is a big coup for YOZMA and Reform Judaism in general in Modi'in.
As an aside the Shabbat service on Friday night was lovely. My cousin Natan and his daughter Noam accompanied the singing on their guitars. Natan, who was a NFTY song leader years ago at both the Kutz and Eisner camps had his first chance to play in a Jewish setting when I was a rabbi in Pearl River, NY and I invited him to play from the bima. At this past service he introduced my son Noam's new “Ma Tovu” from Noam''s new album to the congregation. It was nice to hear his song in this setting and the congregation responded to it quite well.
Before the megillah reading on Saturday night the YOZMA organized a carnival with games and refreshments for the kids outside and in the lobby of the center. The youth group, here called Telem,, helped out as do our youth groups here at Sinai. The carnival is called a “Purimon.” combining the word Purim with the word “rimon,” which means pomegranate. The parade is called an “Adloyada” which means “until you don't know.” This refers to the obligation in the Talmud to drink until you don't know the difference between blessed is Mordecai and cursed is Haman.” At the Megillah reading they also hired actors to perform the story in a very humorous way.

There are also fun activity days held at the various schools. These too are called Purimon. In addition, there was a two day break from school - Purim and the day after.
I should mention that unlike Chanukah when in Israel the main holiday food is sufganiyot the fried donuts and not latkes, on Purim the hamantaschen rule here also. All last week extra stalls were set up at the mall to sell packaged shelach manot, costumes, masks, funny hats and lots of hamantaschen. In addition everyone goes to parties; some for kids and others for adults. My brother told me that at his kibbutz they even cancel the regular Friday night dinner, which is often the nicest meal of the week, for their Purim celebration.
In the Ha'Aretz newspaper there was an article announcing the selling of advertising through projected signs onto the Kotel. Even though I found this to be an atrocious idea as an American where we sell advertising on our sacred shrines, stadiums, I could almost believe it. A company like Coca Cola would pay per block of stone for each advertisement. They reported that the experiment was a coke sign and the local vendors claimed it increased sales. Finally at the bottom of the article it was written, “Chag Purim Samayach,” Happy Purim! I discussed this with a few people and at first people did not realize that this was a joke in the spirit of the holiday. Chag Purim Samayach!

Teaching and Learning

My main goal in Israel this year was to supplement the curriculum “Friends From Across the Sea” which is taught in the Modi'in schools in the 5th grade. Because of the Partnership 2000 (P2K) relationship between Rochester and Modi'in the school system has added the study of diaspora Jewry to the curriculum. Modi'in was recently cited by Natan Sharansky, who is presently the director of the Jewish Agency, as a leader in promoting understanding of diaspora Jewry through this curriculum. The other night I attended a meeting the partnership committee here in Modi'in where I witnessed how very proud t hey were of this recognition. They realize that by understanding diaspora Jewry they are in fact strengthening their own identities as Jews and not simply Israelis.
A number of years ago before the department of education in Modi'in officially added this area of study to address what Israelis knew or did not know about the Jews around the world, the discussion was already in the public domain. Even if most Israelis believed that Jews belong in Israel and should make aliyah to fulfill their full identity they could not deny the importance of the diaspora community and its many positive gifts to Jewish and world culture. My goal is to personalize some of the studies in the classrooms by comparing life in Rochester and the US with life in Israel.
So far I have been at 5 different schools and have spoken to more than 15 classes. The schools and the classes I have visited have had different “feels” to them based on the varied personalities of the principals and teachers. The tone of a school is generally set by the principal. An Israeli friend pointed out to me a difference she observed in American schools where her children attended for 2 years and Israeli schools. In the US the teacher is hosting the students in his or her classroom. The teacher arrives before the students and is there to greet them upon their entrance. The student is thereby entering the domain of the teacher. Too often here in Israel in the classes I visited the teachers would come in after the students and on more than one occasion were late. An unruly atmosphere was already created and now the teacher had the difficult task of changing the momentum. It was explained to me that because there are many specific subject teachers it is the teachers who move and not the students. One technique used by some teachers is to require the students to stand quietly when the teacher arrives and then greet each other. To me this is less a way of showing respect , i.e. standing to honor someone, than it is a way to change the atmosphere in the room. Yet to my eye it does not seem to alter the energy level of the students.
My lessons so far have centered on the lives and realities of Jews who reside in America. Even a idea of not having only Jews in a class is new for the students here. Being a minority is something they do not face on a regular basis. Modi'in unlike some other cities in Israel is almost an entirely Jewish city with a minuscule non-Jewish presence among the residents. I try to convey realities about Jewish life in Rochester as having to affiliate with a synagogue simply for purposes of Jewish identity along with good relations with non-Jewish neighbors and family.
On short exercise I do is to compare what our two flags symbolize for each of us. The Israeli flag contains both the Magen David (what we refer to as a Jewish star) and the two blue stripes of the tallit. One girl creatively described that as symbolizing Israel walking through the split sea in the story of the Exodus. I explain that while that is the Israeli flag it also has meaning to Jews who are not Israelis. When the Israeli students describe the American flag they know of the stars (5 pointed) and stripes. More often than not they tell me that our flag has 51 stars. This was repeated so often I almost doubted my own knowledge of 50 stars representing 50 states. One boy even knew that some people have jokingly referred to Israel as our 51st state.
In a later blog I will reflect further on these classroom experiences.

Another Shabbat in Israel

This past week I spent my first Shabbat in Modi'in. On Friday my brother came up from his kibbutz and we partook in a favorite activity at the local shopping center, wine tasting at the store, Derekh Hayayin (The Wine Trail). In fact we purchased some wine for our Shabbat dinner.
I attended services at Kehillat YOZMA, the Reform congregation in Modi'in. Rabbi Kinneret Shiryon, who had visited us at Temple Sinai a number of years ago welcomed the 2 other visiting rabbis and singled me out as a regular visitor and was surprised she hadn't known I was in town. I also saw Ron Newman's cousin Yuval who had also spoken at Temple Sinai when he visited. He is an active member of the congregation. To my surprise I ran into friends from the Reform Kibbutz Yahel near Eilat. I had co-officiated at their marriage in the late 70's before they made aliyah. They were original founders of that first Reform kibbutz. We had met when we were all on staff at the URJ Kutz Camp. They now also have an apartment in Modi'in where their daughter lives with their granddaughter. They no longer work on the kibbutz but are still members and return there almost every week. The pattern of their lives reflects the new privatization of the once totally socialist kibbutz lifestyle.
After services I returned to my Aunt's home for Shabbat dinner. Her son Natan, his wife Sigal, 2 of their 3 children as well as a business friend of his and his partner joined us for dinner. Natan's daughter, Noam, has taken after both her father and her namesake and is becoming quite a good guitarist. Before dinner she played Shalom Aleichem and after dinner she and Natan played for a while.
On Shabbat morning after I had finished my long walk my brother and I took a drive to a park and archaeological site, Tel Lachish. It was a city conquered by Joshua when the Israelites returned to the land. At one time it was the second most important city in the kingdom of Judah and was captured first by Sennacherib during the Assyrian conquest and then by Nebuchadnezzar when the Babylonians conquered Judah. It had great views in all directions and one could see why it was an important and strategic city. Since this is a period of late winter, even with the heat wave, the rains have made the fields green and lush. Flowers are blooming all around and the landscape is beautiful.
After Lachish we went to a winery near a monastery that was open on Shabbat. I do not recommend the wines but the view of the surrounding valley was lovely. We then took a ride through the JNF President's Forest on a very narrow, bumpy and unpaved road called the “Sculpture Route.” My brother is a careful driver but by the end of this lovely 10 kilometer drive up and down a mountain our kidneys certainly needed a time out. There were a number of memorial signs which reminded us of the old Israeli movie “Sallah Shabbati” where the protagonist, Sallah, a recent immigrant to Israel during the early years of the state was hired to work in such a Jewish National Fund forest, often to change the signs on trees with different names of visiting tourists who had bought trees in Israel back in the States. One really shouldn't expect to find a specific tree bought through the fund.
That evening we met Rabbi Miri Gold and David Leichman. We went to an area in the city of Rishon L'Tziyon where there are many restaurants. The restaurant they chose is called Soho but has no connection to either London or Manhattan. My brother Rob then headed back to his kibbutz and I returned to Modi'in. Shavua Tov!

Bar Mitzvah at the Kotel and a Little Wine

On Sunday morning Rosh Chodesh Adar I made my way down to the Kotel to attend the Bar Mitzvah of Donny Kilimnick, the son of Drs. Joseph and Susie Kilimnick and the oldest grandson of Rabbi Shaya and Nechie Kilimnick. I generally do not go to the Kotel to pray but having been invited to attend I wanted to honor the family and participate in their simcha.
The minyan was set up next to the mechitza wall (the separation between the men and women's sections for prayer) with a small reader's table and a number of plastic chairs. One very nice part of the occasion was that I was able to see a number of people who had been Rochester residents in the past and were now residing in Israel after making aliyah. I saw Karen and Bruce Zivan and family and Reuven and Idit Shapira. In addition to the Kilimnick clan and friends, Aharon Baruch and Kathy Simon were also in Israel with their children.
The simcha was lovely but the usual drawbacks of worshiping at the Kotel were present for me. There were a constant flow of individuals coming over to everyone with their own “pushkes” or hands held out asking for money even while people were praying. To me this is distracting and an interruption when one is trying to concentrate. After some thought I also see that if prayer is supposed to lead to good deeds, what better deed is there than tzedakah. Yet I still wonder where this money ends up and if people are simply not trying to avoid working a regular job and simply choose to do this to make their meager living? The second drawback from my perspective is not only the gender separation but the complete inequality in participation. Neither mother nor grandmother could be near the Bar Mitzvah boy. The mechitza is also so high that at first a hand was raised above it holding a camera to take pictures. Later a few chairs were brought over and a few of the women were able to stand on them to get a glimpse of the proceedings. I hope this atmosphere is meaningful to the family but it something to which I have great difficulty relating.
This celebration occurred at a time when in the news there is reporting of the debate over the many segregated bus lines not only in the Haredi (ultra-Orthodox) neighborhoods but even between cities. Women are relegated to the back of the bus. In many cases if one wants to go between certain cities on non-segregated buses, for example Ashdod to Tzefat, it can be more expensive and take longer with less convenient connections. Add to that the ongoing prejudices against the “Women of the Wall” with the arrest of a woman for wearing tefillin and the police questioning of the director of the Israeli Religious Action Center (IRAC) and you have a disturbing religious inequality against those who express their Judaism in a non-Orhtodox manner.
On a more upbeat note I made 2 new discoveries in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City. The first was a new wine store in the Cardo. I was told that the proprietor goes to many small limited production wineries and acquires wines that are not distributed in the US and often not widespread in Israel. They carry many top end kosher wines and I tasted an unusual blend of sangiovese and barbera grapes grown in Israel.
The second place was a small museum/exhibition describing the fall of the Jewish Quarter in Jerusalem in the War of Independence. There were photographs from an American photo journalist John Phillips who dressed as an Arab Legionnaire and accompanied them as they defeated the Jewish defenders. There was also a short film with a few of the original defenders who fought when they were in their late teens or early 20's reminiscing about the events. I enjoyed this exhibit as that is a period of history in which I have a great deal of interest. In fact I am in the midst of reading the Israeli historian Benny Morris's book 1948.
On Monday after I returned to Modi'in my good friends David and Rabbi Miri invited me to join them, and his father, his father's partner, his sister and brother-in-law for dinner in Jaffa. In the section of Jaffa that had been the old market center many new restaurants have opened. We went to one called Chacouterie which has smoked meats produced by the owner. David, his brother-in-law and I shared a few dishes accompanied by a bottle of Flam Classico wine. It only had an 83 point Wine Spectator rating but was a fine accompaniment to the meal. Due to what they are calling the longest February heat wave we were able to sit outside in shirt sleeves without the benefit or need of heating lamps. Sometimes it is easy to know why I love Israel.

Shabbat in Jerusalem

Friday in Israel has a different feel even though it is a work day for many. There is a busy flow on the streets in many of the stores. Many people have the day off as they enjoy the new Israeli weekend; Friday and Saturday. In one part of town called the German Colony, due to early settlement by the order of Templars, there is an open air crafts and goods market. It is fun not only to browse but to talk to some of the artists. It is often a good place to pick up a gift if one is invited to Shabbat dinner.
One can't help but notice the beautiful bouquets of flowers sold on many street corners which are then used to beautify homes. There are now also more modern wine stores throughout the country which allow one to find better quality that is being produced in the new Israeli wine culture. Friday is the day when many of these shops offer tastings. Today on Emek Rephalim St I tasted one French Cahors (Malbec) and two Recanati reserve wines. The lunch places are crowded as many people eat lunch out and later will have their Shabbat dinner at home.
After a mid afternoon period of heavy traffic that too begins to diminish as the sun starts its descent in the sky. The side walks too become more sparsely populated. I took a 40 minute walk from my hotel to Congregation Kol HaNeshama one of the Reform congregations in Jerusalem. As I approached the entrance a taxi pulled up with 4 rabbis from the States who were here on their region's P2K mission. I knew two of them and sat with them in a service led by the synagogue's youth group which is part of Telem Noar, the equivalent of NFTY in Israel. They had three guitar players and two drummers. In attendance were a number of visiting groups including students from Brigham Young University as well as a congregation from Long Island. It was good to see a few rabbis from back home as well a number of people who reside in Jerusalem and belong to this congregation. After the service I was invited to a Shabbat dinner at the home of old friends. It is not unusual for people to invite a person or two extra to their home and there is never a shortage of food. It is a lovely custom when at services people check to see if others need Shabbat dinner invitations.
On Shabbat morning I walked over to HUC. They no longer have services every Saturday as a cost cutting issue. However, this Shabbat they did have totally student run services. The cantorial student had a great voice and there were two lovely divrei Torah. One spoke of our need not only to intend to do something but to actually make the effort and do it. The second professed that it is perfectly appropriate for rabbis to use tradition to discuss political issues. After the service at the kiddush the dean of the school Rabbi Naamah Kelman asked visiting rabbis and professionals to introduce themselves and tell why we were in Israel. People were quite interested that I was able to teach in public schools in Modi'in.
Afterwards I walked to a friends apartment to join them to go to a Shabbat lunch. Rabbi Stan and Resa Davids have been friends ever since I was in rabbinical school and worked at the Kutz Camp. Stan is the past president of ARZA and Resa who has been active in WRJ (Women of Reform Judaaism) has been instrumental in organizing many of the Israeli congregations to be part of WRJ. We actually went out to a special place, the American Colony Hotel in East Jerusalem. This is one of the grandest hotels in all of Jerusalem and was a British institution during the times of the British Mandate.. During the intifada times both Palestinians and news reporters used this as a base. More important, to say the least the food was wonderful.
As I walked back to the center of town and Ben Yehuda Street after Shabbat was over it was wonderful to see the crowds back on the street. For the previous 24 hours these streets were nearly empty but Saturday night they were alive and teeming with people and activity. The change from Friday's early activity to the peacefulness of Shabbat and then back to a lot of the activity cannot be missed. It truly was a Shabbat Shalom.

Visit from President Shimon Peres

The excitement in Modi'in on Tuesday was the visit of Israeli President Shimon Peres. He was coming to visit, see the city and be greeted by officials and students. Since he was coming to the city hall which is directly across from Temple Sinai's match school, Idanim, the principal and now our dear friend Aviva Dvir invited me to join the first graders from her school when they greeted President Peres. I arrived at the school early and she and I headed across the street into the city hall. Both of us found it a bit unusual that there was limited security. Traffic was passing by on the street and there were no road blocks. We were able to enter the city hall where she introduced me to Alon, the man who was in charge of major programs such as this, parades and Yom HaAtzma'ut celebrations in Modi'in. When the 1st graders arrived he had a wonderful way with them.
Since we were early we went to see the head of the city department of education. Chaya Shitai. She was on the delegation of teachers to Rochester in December. She was excited to see me and then asked both Aviva and I if we wanted to attend a special session with Peres and high school students later that morning. She arranged for us to have tickets. I also was introduced to the Mayor of Modi'in Haim Bibas who invited me to come in to chat some time after all of this ruckus was over.
The students were all given Israeli flags to wave and were lined up along the wall on the side of the stairway leading from the street to the city hall. When President Peres arrived a trumpet was blown and he began ascending the steps. He greeted the children and shook hands with most of them. He even told one child to use the right hand not the left. He asked the kids to sing a Purim song and received a booklet they had prepared for him. As he passed each of the teachers he asked each one their name. As he came by me the mayor who was at his side said that I was a rabbi visiting from Rochester, NY. He shook my hand and then went on. At the top of the steps a mandolin orchestra from two other elementary schools played a piece and one of the city's chief rabbis offered a prayer.
An hour later Aviva and I went to the theater at the cultural center where Peres was meeting with over 500 high school students. Our tickets entitled us to sit in the third row. Students filled the majority of the seats and I must say they were very respectful and well behaved. It seems that Peres the politician has given way to Peres the President who has garnered much love and respect. There were some short speeches by Chaya, Mayor Bibas and a student representing a coalition of youth organizations. There was a short film about Modi'in and a powerpoint of some of the accomplishments of the youth and students of the city. For example, Modi'in has the highest percentage of youth who enter the IDF (the Israeli Defense Forces) of any city in the country. A singing group from one of the high schools, MOR-Re'ut, which happens to be matched with our 7th grade students, sang a song. Then rather than a straight speech from Peres a number of students had been chosen to ask questions. Since this all was happening in Hebrew I could not catch everything but was able to get the gist of much of it. Peres responded with a lot of praise and encouragement for the students. He told them of the tremendous potential they have. One phrase he used was well received when he said we need less teaching (probably referring to teachers who talk at their students) and more education.
Another question reflected a thought I had about his new status. How has he changed from a politician to the supreme statesman who sits outside the field of politics. Hi response was very thoughtful and thought provoking. He claimed that now that he is president his popularity rating has shot up. He is more beloved by people from various parts of the political spectrum. But then he mentioned that sometimes one needs to take positions that might not be as popular. He asked the question of whether it is better to be loved or argue your point of view? We may all ponder the answer.

RAMAT HANADIV

A number of years ago when I was on a rabbinic familiarization mission to Israel my cousin asked the organizer, “What can you show Alan Katz that he hasn't seen before?” The answer then as it is now is “Plenty!” So this past Monday I went on a trip with my host and a friend of hers to a place called Ramat HaNadiv, the Heights of the Benefactor. It is a park and garden just south of the town of Zichron Yaakov, and north of the towns of Binyamina and Pardes Hannah. Not only had I never been to this place but I had also not heard of it before.
All three of these towns are in the district south of Haifa. Each one was named after various members of the Rothschild family; Baron Edmund Benjamin James, James Mayer and Hannah Rothschild. The park and garden also refer to Baron Edmund who is now buried in a crypt in a cave in the middle of the memorial garden. Baron Rothschild was a major benefactor to many early Zionists at the beginning of the 20th century. He helped support some of the untrained and poor Zionists who came to Palestine yet were met with some serious challenges of survival. Because of him not only were these towns established but agricultural endeavors were built especially the beginning of the Israeli wine industry. These agricultural projects were done as private and capitalistic enterprises and were not collective or socialist as were other early settlements such as the kibbutzim and the moshavim.
Some of the Rothschild sponsored work lead to the continuation of the family business in France of wine production. In Zichron Yaakov Rothschild started Carmel-Mizrachi Winery in 1885. One of Rothschild's grape growers was the great-grandfather of the founder of the Tishbi Winery in the town of Binyamina. Also in that town is the Binyamina Winery founded in 1952,which was originally called Eliaz after the founder Joseph Zeltser's son, but later changed its name to connect with the town and Baron Edmund Rothschild. The original building was in a perfume factory established by Rothschild.
After an unusual journey when 2 GPS systems totally lost their signal and a road supposedly crossing the railroad tracks on a map is now blocked, we arrived at Ramat HaNadiv. At the entrance to the garden and park is a unique building complex that contains an information center, an auditorium, research facilities, a screening room and a lovely restaurant where we ate a delicious lunch. The building is a “Green Structure” blending into the environment and using the natural setting for its light and power. They have also found ways to chase away local animals from the plants on the building as well as the garden without damaging the environment for either the flora or fauna. Some of the explanations of how they developed this site yet managed to be environmentally protective are found in a small information center. There is also a wonderful film not only about the park and garden but about Baron Rothschild and his love of the land and his influence in helping to strengthen the Jewish residents of the land in his day at the beginning of the 20th century.
After lunch we toured the beautiful gardens with both the formal aspect and the different sections of unusual plants, some of which I do not think I have seen before. Finally we visited the cave and crypt where Rothschild was brought for his final burial place in the land he loved.
We did not have a chance to hike in the greater park but I plan to return at a later date. This is one more place in Israel that combines natural beauty with history of the land and and the early Zionist period which helped to build what today is modern Israel. Most tours will not have this on their agenda but if one wants to combine a lovely outdoor experience with a bit of history then this place is delightful experience.

My Brother's Kibbutz

This past weekend I visited my brother Rob (Bob to everyone in Israel) at his kibbutz, Nir Yitzhak. It is located in the Western Negev bordering the Gaza strip a few miles before the Israel first touches the Sinai peninsula. He made aliyah (immigration to Israel) about 33 years ago about the same time as my friends David Leichman and Rabbi Miri Gold also settled in Israel. In the past few years I have introduced them and we now get together as we all are foodies and love good restaurants. After their first meeting 2 years ago David turned to me and commented that Rob seemed to him as a typical kibbutznik. He meant that Rob no longer came off as an American in many ways such as dress, thinking, world view, etc. A short time after that as Rob and I were driving to our destination he commented that David in all the years still comes off as a total American. In relating the comments to both of them they not only agreed with the assessments made but actually acknowledged that they shaped their lifestyles to those descriptions. For instance; Rob went to a kibbutz where there were almost no Americans or other native English speakers. David's kibbutz was reestablished with a core group (called a garin, seed) of Americans. David constantly interacts with large numbers of Americans both in Israel and the States. Rob visits the family, every so often and has worked as a teacher of English, with one of the kibbutz companies and now for a few years as manger of the food service at the kibbutz. Generally he has had limited direct contact with Americans and our culture.
To get to Rob's kibbutz from Modi'in I take a Connex (name of company) bus to the Tel Aviv central bus station. To get into the building which is also a mall one goes through security and my two travel bags were opened. I go up the escalator from the 4th to the 6th floor where most of the intercity buses depart. Usually I go to my favorite schwarma stand but I had a late breakfast so I settled on water, an egosi candy bar and a Jerusalem Post newspaper while I waited. The bus to the kibbutz at one time was a direct trip with numerous stops along the way and a 20 minute rest stop at the snack bar and shop run by Kibbutz Yad Mordechai even though the driver's trip might be about 2 hours to the last stop. Now they actually changed drivers at a stop on the road near Ashkelon, there is no rest stop annd we get off and change buses about 10 miles north of the kibbutz at the Eshkol Regional Center. The trip still only took 2 hours.
Rob has just moved to a new house this past week and was still in the process of clearing out his old place and setting things up in the new. As he described things he told me that they were going to add another room. This would be a reinforced shelter known as a security room. Most of the time it serves as a regular room but in the case of bombing is a safer place. They have alsso been building extra security in all the children's facilities. Over the past years his kibbutz has been quite fortunate and not had a rocket or missile land within the area where people live. A couple of years ago during my visit when I learned of and experienced the “red alert” warnings a rocket landed less than 50 feet from the front gate in the road on which every car that enters the kibbutz passes. Even after the “Cast Lead” operation in December of 2008, there are still occasional missiles shot from Gaza towards the town of Sderot and the Western Negev settlements. This year things have been fairly calm for now but who knows when that might change. I was told that the extra security was being installed because rockets are now more accurate and have a greater range.
On Saturday I went out for walk. I was eager to go because during the previous 2 days I was unable to go because there had been a great deal of rain even here in the Negev which is considered desert. Within the kibbutz fence there is a road that circles the entire living area and it is about 2 miles in length. From my brothers home I walked towards the rear fence perhaps 100 yards away and turned right. Towards the end of the loop as I was approaching my start point I looked out past the fence and the fields and saw a large built up area. [see picture] It could only be one place, the city of Rafiah in Gaza. In the past I have seen this but this time I was reminded how close this city was and in turn how close the kibbutz was to the Gaza strip. It actually rests on the border that was established with the State itself. It doesn't take much imagination to think about rockets that could and were shot from civilian areas in Rafiah towards any of the Israeli kibbutzim or other towns near by. Even since Operation Cast Lead many rockets have been smuggled into Gaza in close range to many civilian areas. Yet for the moment it was quiet and calm.
Rob and his fellow kibbutzniks go about their lives. What choice do they have? And I will continue to visit.

First Visit to Jerusalem (this time)

My third day here and it was time to visit Jerusalem. Coincidently since it was also Ground Hog Day I thought of the movie when the same day repeats itself and only the protaganist's behavior can change each repeated day. Well, Jerusalem may be eternal but it is never the same.
Took the bus from Modi'in which drops one off at the Central Bus Station. I decided to take the healthy walk down Jaffa Road by way of Agrippas Street to the Old City which is usually one of my first stops. The entire length of Jaffa Road all the way to the Old City is dug up for construction of a new lite rail line. Last summer I heard that a great deal of the work had to be redone since there was a problem with inferior and inadequate materials. The project began a few years ago and the end is not yet in sight. I took a slight detour on a parallel street on the other side of Machane Yehuda which is the open stall market area. I amazed myself by walking past Marzipan bakery and not stopping to buy any of the “to die for” chocolate rugeleh.
The second change was at the Jaffa Gate itself where construction or repairs are being done. The road into the Old City is also dug up all the way to the police station past the Tower of David Museum. There it appears the project is the laying or repairing of pipes or cables. There is only a narrow walkway even narrower than the Old City streets before you can get into the shuk (market place).
My first stop was to visit my dear friend of almost 40 years George Kahvedjian, who is an Armenian photographer and has the most magnificent collection of Jerusalem and Israel photos, mostly taken by his father Eli, of blessed memory. We have numerous examples in our home and most people who have traveled with me know about these gems.
George is a workaholic (according to his son Eli) and hardly ever takes a day off or a vacation. I often surprise him rather than calling ahead and so to my surprise when I walked in the shop Eli was there alone since George had taken a day off and went with some friends to Jericho to a wonderful citrus grove. I spoke to him and he described the beauty of the place. Next time I'll call ahead and perhaps be able to join him. Since I saw him last in July he has 2 new granddaughters and we are on a par with 5 a piece.
My next stop was Abu Shukri's little nook of a restaurant for the best hummus in the city (if not all of Israel). Some would argue this point but two years ago friends of my son Noam did a taste test and Abu Shukri won out.
From there I walked through the Arab market which was calm and safe to the Jewish Quarter. The big change there for those who have not been in a few years is the reconstruction of the Hurva Synagogue which many recall was represented by the single arch that was rebuilt after '67 until just a couple of years ago. As I turned the corner lo and behold I bumped in Rabbi Shaya and Nechie Kilimnick, his son Dr Yosef Kilimnick and his wife Susie, some of the kids plus to Zivan boys, who had made aliyah last year. Yosef and Susie's son Donnie will be Bar Mitzvah at the Kotel (the Wall) on Sunday February 14th, Rosh Chodesh Adar. I was invited to attend. Since I was already planning to be in Jerusalem that day I will gladly join their simcha even with my personal discomfort at the Kotel. I actually bumped into them 2 more times on the Mamilla Mall a new mostly outdoor mall extending from the Jaffa Gate to King David Street. Since the summer they opened an indoor three story section. Changes,Changes, Changes!
The remainder of the day consisted of coffee at Cafe Aroma (one of my favorite activities which includes reading and people watching), walking the streets (where I bumped into another friend), a stop at the Hebrew Union College and dinner on Emek Rephaim. One of the things I noticed this time was the number of well dressed Arabs at the Mamilla Mall shopping and at the cafes. Once again the news doesn't always give a complete picture.
A bus ride home to Modi'in where tomorrow I will begin my teaching at the Idanim school.

First Day

Arriving in Israel at Ben Gurion Airport is always a lift to my spirits. There were no lines and no hassles. Over the years passport control often asked me if I have an Israeli passport, but this time they only asked the reason and length of my visit. As I exited into the main hall I immediately saw my friend Amos Dvir (Aviva's husband) who was my ride to Modi'in. Aviva is the principal of Idanim School, our match in the Partnership education bridge. She is also Jan's counterpart in Israel running the bridge on their side and has become a dear friend.
Coincidently on the plane I sat one seat away from a fellow who said he was from Maccabim, a small area that is technically part of Modi'in, along with Re'ut. He asked if I needed a ride to Modi'in. Even more of a coincidence was that his wife is active at YOZMA the Reform congregation in Modi'in and he knows my cousin.
Took my first walk from the apartment I stay at all the way to the water tower on the top of a park and hill known as Titora. Yesterday was Tu B'Shevat and you can feel the approaching spring and see wild flowers beginning to sprout on the hillside. I saw the bright red poppies and other yellow flowers (Sorry I am not an expert on names).
This evening Vicky (my aunt, friend and hostess) and I went for dinner with my friends Rabbi Miri Gold and David Leichman who live on Kibbutz Gezer. One of their sons, Arishai, invited a few young women to dinner who had recently been on a Birthright program. Two of the women who had very little previous contact or knowledge of Israel or Judaism were totally turned on by the experience. One said she wished she could bring her dog and fiancée over because she really did not want to leave. Her entire life and world view were altered by this Israel trip. It was exciting to see what a single trip to Israel could do for a young adult who previously had less than a strong tie to Israel and Judaism. This was a Birthright success story.
David's 18 year endeavor, Pinat Shorashim has recently been closed down due to relations with the kibutz. He has sent some of the pieces from the park to Kansas City where they may become part of a project “Pinat Shorashim West,” an attempt to use some of his philosophy and approach to enhance local Jewish education. He is looking for his next employment opportunity. The kibbutz seems to have agreed to allow Miri to use the outdoor sanctuary at Pinat Shorashim for her congregation Birkat Shalom. Hopefully all will work out for the best for them.
In the past few years I have seen two of their three children Eliora and Alon when I have visited. Arishai returned from two years of exotic travels this past November and it was wonderful to see him again.

Eve of Departure for Israel

As I am about to set off on my sabbatical journey to Israel I realize that this is the 31st time I have visited. I have been there twice for almost a year as a student, first at the Hebrew University and then at HUC to begin my rabbinic studies. I have been there for as little as 3 days on a mission of rabbis at the conclusion of the first Gulf War. I had even signed on to that trip before the war was over.
While I do have my brother Bob to visit and other friends and family the pull for me to return time and again goes beyond individual people. I have an internal connection that I view as spiritual and almost might be termed mystical in that I feel my being which began on May 15, 1948 is integrally tied up with the state. Each time I return I feel a sense of being where part of me truly belongs.
This visit is the conclusion of my latest sabbatical and I will be teaching in the Modi’in schools about Diaspora (mostly American) Jews and Judaism to 5th graders. It is part of their curriculum of “Friends Across the Sea” which was instituted partly because of our Rochester-Modi’in Partnership. I have done a bit of this in the past but hope to visit more schools and students this time than I had the opportunity to do in the past.
At this time I have to plans for formal study but will learn at every opportunity that comes my way, even if it is only from the students and teachers I encounter. I hope to share some of my experiences and insights during the next two months.